Your skin talks to you, are you listening?

Your skin talks to you, but often it is not listened to. This is what Elsenoor van Vemde, Skincare Education Specialist at Paula’s Choice, told me during a Zoom call when we were discussing my skin. It was so restless, dry, and red, but I ignored that and kept going with what I had been doing all along. My skin was actually screaming in distress, and it was very clear that I needed to stop what I was doing at that moment. And it was really true: I went back to basics, and my skin had recovered to its old familiar state in no time. The calm had returned, and I wanted to know everything about it. So I spoke with Elsenoor about everything we can improve, about sun damage, scrubbing, and the rest of your skin, because we apply all sorts of things to our face, but we leave the rest as it is.

Tell us more about the skin that you believe really talks, because I find that super interesting.
‘I absolutely believe that the skin talks to you, if you just listen. The skin is the largest organ of our body and an important organ that protects us and can help assess our health, especially since our face also reflects who we are. So it is important to ‘listen’ well, in this case to look and/or feel what your skin is trying to say. Think for example of stress, unhealthy nutrition, or not being gentle with your skin. This has a direct effect on your skin, causing impurities, irritations, or a dull or dehydrated skin that feels tight.’

Are there standard reactions that immediately show whether you are missing something or actually need something?
‘Every skin is different: we have different skin types and skin needs, which means everyone reacts differently. One skin quickly gets impurities or is prone to inflammation, while another has more trouble with dry patches and flakes. One thing that everyone does need, just like the body, are certain nutrients and protection such as antioxidants, skin-repairing and moisturizing ingredients, exfoliants, and a minimum SPF of 30, even when the sun is not shining.’

What really still needs improvement?
‘We cannot say it often enough, but it is so important that the skin is protected from the sun every day. Furthermore, with all the products and trends, we sometimes tend to apply a bit too much, without being aware of what your skin needs and listening to what the skin thinks of it. First, try a separate product, build it up slowly, and watch how you react to it.’

Sun damage is very common, can this damage still be repaired?
‘In this case, I would always say: prevention is better than cure. It is quite complex. Sun damage occurs due to exposure to UV radiation, which is well known, but that damage affects deeper layers in the skin, making it very difficult to repair this only with skincare. It depends on the type of hyperpigmentation, but you can improve the skin with exfoliation. There are beautiful ingredients that can help your skin, such as vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, or azelaic acid. If that doesn’t work, there are specialized treatments such as peels, laser, or light treatments. Just make sure to get good advice from a skin therapist or dermatologist before starting this.’

If a coarse scrub is not so good for the skin, why does it still exist?
‘Scrubbing is popular because of the sensation it gives and the idea of removing dead skin cells and thereby helping the skin. Unfortunately, the opposite is true. Many scrubs contain coarse grains, think of salt, sugar, or pits, and if you go at it hard, you damage the skin barrier and create small wounds. People with acne and keratosis pilaris tend to scrub, which can cause the skin to become (even more) irritated and lead to inflammation or an expansion of existing inflammation. You can better reduce excess dead skin cells with an exfoliant containing glycolic acid or salicylic acid. Which one suits your skin best depends on your skin type and skin concerns.’

If our skin is the largest organ, why do we take such good care of our face and not do this with the rest of our body?
‘The skin on your body is thicker than the skin on your face, and we have more fat and fewer sebaceous glands on our body. The face also deals with more external influences. You can certainly help the rest of the body with various body care products, but be careful that they do not contain irritating ingredients and that you always wear good protection when exposed to the sun.’

Rinsing your face under the cold tap to combat sleepy eyes or other swellings, myth or fact?
‘This is indeed a myth and mainly leads to more water loss. Not drying your face so that you would be more hydrated is also a myth; this can even lead to drier skin. Preferably use lukewarm water, at a temperature close to your body temperature (and not ‘extreme’ temperatures because these can potentially disrupt the skin barrier and worsen skin concerns such as rosacea or couperose).’

Should men care for their skin differently than women?
‘Men are also doing more for their skin, while they used to find this a hassle or were still somewhat unaware. The skin of men and women needs the same, but men generally have a slightly thicker skin with more elastin and facial hair. The latter can sometimes cause irritation or inflammation, where the right skincare can help, without heavily perfumed products or those rich in alcohol. So men also need a basic routine: cleanser, exfoliant (possibly a BHA exfoliant for shaving irritation), and a moisturizer to start with; this can really be done in five minutes.’