Astypalaia is the most beautiful undiscovered Greek island
Not in the mood for hordes of Dutch people in Corfu or Rhodes? Then go to Astypalaia, because this might be the most beautiful undiscovered island in Greece.
The Greeks affectionately call the island the butterfly island. Not surprising, because if you pull up the maps app, you can clearly see that Astypalaia has the shape of a butterfly. When you arrive by ferry, the harbor buzzes with liveliness. But as soon as everyone finds their way, peace returns. It is the ideal place to enjoy a Freddo Espresso on the slightly elevated terrace by the bank and watch life unfold here. Astypalaia is small and cozy, but it has a hint of Athens about it.
The journey to Astypalaia
There are two ways to quickly reach the butterfly island. The easiest option from the Netherlands is to take a flight to Kos. With a taxi, you can reach the harbor in just under half an hour, where you take the fast ferry to the island. It takes about two and a half hours to reach the island by boat. Keep in mind that the sea in Greece can sometimes be a bit rough on these longer distances. Find a spot in the middle of the boat, among the locals, so you have as little trouble as possible from the waves. Not a fan of sailing? Fly to Athens and take a domestic flight to the island from there. It operates twice a day.
Astypalaia is a well-kept secret among the Greeks. They love to vacation here often and extensively. It makes sense, as the architectural style of the island resembles that of the Cyclades, while it officially belongs to the Dodecanese. There are plenty of affordable and charming Airbnbs here. Each one is more beautifully decorated than the other, as the taste is clearly flown in from the capital. The nice thing is that there is (almost) always a refreshing sea breeze on the island. So, no worries if you spend the high season here. But don't forget May, June, and September. The peace returns a bit more to the island then, and people have more time for you.
The most beautiful hotel on Astypalaia
If you really want to splurge during your vacation on Astypalaia, there is actually only one hotel where you want to stay: Saluti da Stampalia. You are picked up at the ferry by the hotel's white jeep. Upon arrival, they are ready for you with a drink. The hotel's interior feels like walking through a dream. The plastered walls, fluttering hand-knotted curtains, the view of the town of Chora. Everything is equally magical. And you probably won't meet kinder people anywhere else than here. Treat yourself to a suite with a jacuzzi and a view of the bay, and you'll never want to go home. This is the kind of place you still talk about every day when you return home.
The hotel has only nine rooms, so you never get in each other's way. Are you not a big breakfast eater at home? Just forget that here. The breakfast at Saluti da Stampalia is tastier than that salad in the afternoon on the beach. You choose some dishes from the menu, and they prepare them fresh for you. In the meantime, you get the best coffee and can choose some sweets from the small buffet. It's just that you probably want to do everything when you're on the island; otherwise, you could sit here all day. Take your time for it.
To do on Astypalaia
As I said, the island is small, but that doesn't mean you can explore it in one day. The island has hidden beaches and charming towns. One of the beaches is Kaminakia Beach. The ride to this bay is an adventure in itself. The road is bumpy and easiest to navigate with a scooter. But once you arrive at the beach, it’s the colors of the sea, rocks, and sand that you will never forget. There is exactly one taverna, without a menu. The mother of the house tells you with gestures what is available, as she doesn't speak a word of English. But the food? Exactly as delicious as you would expect from a Greek mama.
Chora is the most famous and largest town of Astypalaia. In the mornings and evenings, it comes to life around the characteristic white windmills. The Greeks drink their coffees here and discuss world issues. Be sure to walk to the top of the town at a cooler time, where you have a spectacular view over the sea. Among the crumbling ruins, two white churches with blue roofs still stand proudly. It has always been a strategic point, as you can oversee everything that happens on the island from here.
In one of the white windmills, you will find the Katsika Boutique. Katsika is the Greek word for goat, and you will see that image everywhere. Hand-painted shirts, the cutest notebooks, crocheted bags, and jewelry. Even though the shop is small, you see something new every time. It is by far one of the nicest places to shop for a souvenir in Greece. Also, walk up the street a bit, as you will find a nice shop with jewelry, hammam towels, or shoes from Athens on every street corner. Tip: jewelry is often cheaper in Greece, so take advantage of that.
Dining out on Astypalaia
After breakfast, you naturally want to take care of your inner self as well. That works excellently here on the island. For seeing and being seen, you go to eat at Akti Restaurant by the sea. The food is fine and tasty, but it is mainly the ambiance that makes it special. The windmill, the view of Chora, watching the sun set into the sea. It is an experience in itself. In Livadia, the town between Chora and the hotel, is the best fish restaurant on the island. At Astropelos you eat the tastiest shrimp, lobster, and fish. Prefer an evening among the Greeks on the terrace? Choose a taverna opposite the windmills in Chora. There, you can enjoy the best eggplant salad and dolmedakia among the locals.
