Do you always drive in a straight line to Tuscany or do you fly straight to the tip of the boot? Whoa, stop! I have another suggestion for you: take the train to Trentino.
Trentino is the other Italy. Mountains like in Austria and Switzerland, pasta like in Puglia, and fashion like in Milan. This time I headed towards the charming town of Cavalese, located in Val di Fiemme. As soon as you step into Hotel La Stüa, it feels like coming home. The interior comes straight from a mountain hut, from the wood on the walls to the lace curtains on the lamps. And warmer and friendlier than the owner is almost impossible.
Coming home in Trentino
On the way there, I had a slight delay with the train, it remains public transport, which made me walk into my room with a healthy appetite. I fell into a small and tasty selection of ham and cheese, plus some bread and an apple for thirst. The room overlooked a cozy square in the middle of the city center. To my great luck, Italians gathered here every morning for a shot of espresso. And come on, on weekends, plenty of bubbles of wine. La Stüa is not only a characteristic hotel but also has an excellent restaurant in-house and across the street a Birroteca. Where you can position yourself in the sun at the end of the afternoon, I speak from experience, for the famous aperitivo. After pizza and pasta, probably the best invention when it comes to treats for the inner person.
Cavalese is located in Trentino and is the central point between three slopes. Those who go during the ski season might end up in the most elegant ski resort in the country (and the surrounding countries). The nice thing is that the prices here haven't skyrocketed yet, so you won't go bankrupt immediately when purchasing a ski pass. Maybe on the slopes, because there are a couple of gems of restaurants where you keep ordering. Take Rifugio Chalet44 on Alpe di Lusia, for example. It's as if you're at the top of the world with crackling snow beneath you drinking the best wine. Correction: that is indeed the case. The view is breathtaking, and in the sun on the terrace, the blissful holiday feeling immediately washes over you.
Hiking paradise
Prefer the cozier mountain hut feeling? Say no more, climb Mount Olympia. Or just take the gondola to Sporting. Here you eat the most delicious canederli or spätzli. The Italian cuisine in this region has strong influences from Austria and Switzerland, but in a way that only the Italians can flavor it. A big plus is that you can see the gondolas passing by the window from the wooden mountain hut. By the way, did you know that Val di Fiemme will be the setting for (part of) the upcoming Olympic Winter Games? An excellent excuse to visit the region before the crowds break loose here. It can only be that this well-kept secret will become a bit more popular soon.
Trentino, and especially Val di Fiemme, is made for the active life enjoyers among us. Biking? Sure! Prefer skiing? Check, the valley has a total of 130 kilometers of slopes. But it is also a hiking paradise. The residents of the region proudly talk about Parco Naturale Paneveggio, also known as Violin Forest. The great violin makers of history came here personally to seek wood for their instruments. The forests are perfect for better walking and hiking. Just be careful about the period you go, because in March there is still a significant amount of snow or ice at this altitude. I set out with guide Elio, who has been wandering these forests for over thirty years. Not only to show us the most beautiful spots but also to maintain the park as well as possible.
Those who don't want to step onto a plane every other minute book a sleeping cabin in the European Sleeper. Just make sure that the couchette is only for you and your company, because stacking yourself with a fold-out bed on top of strangers is quite student-like and cozy. Also nice: the train also has more luxurious accommodations. It's nice to step into a made bed in Eindhoven and wake up in Bolzano the next morning. That's a refreshing and well-rested start to your vacation.
