Dermaplaning: all the benefits, drawbacks, and tips on how to use it

A trend like dermaplaning is typically something I ignored for a long time, because there are risks involved and I am slightly risk-averse when it comes to my skin. Not when it comes to skincare and serums with high percentages (love testing those), but definitely when it involves blades that can seriously cause scars. At least, that’s what I thought. Because on TikTok and Instagram, you could hardly avoid it, and honestly: it didn’t look that dangerous. And sure enough, the moment came when I could no longer avoid it. The blade from CouCou suddenly lay in my bathroom cabinet and now I can’t live without it. But what exactly is it, what does it do, why would you want to (or not) try it, and what do you need to know if you’re going to give it a go?

What is dermaplaning?

Very simple: you take a specially designed blade over your skin to remove dead skin cells and fine facial hairs. The result? A skin that is so soft that you want to touch your own face all day (don’t do that, of course), and a makeup base that really stays better and prettier. One of the biggest makeup YouTubers and makeup brand Huda Beauty has been doing it for years and is a huge fan. So it’s no wonder it has been one of the most popular beauty trends for years.

Dermaplaning is a popular exfoliation technique where you gently ‘scrape’ the skin with a specially designed, sterile blade (a dermaplane blade or scalpel) to remove dead skin cells and fine facial hairs – also known as peach fuzz. It may sound like you’re shaving, but it’s so much more than that. By removing this top layer of skin, your skin feels extremely smooth, looks fresher, and can better absorb products like serums and creams because there’s no ‘barrier’ of dead skin cells. You also apply makeup more easily and it really stays beautiful, believe me. It’s no wonder it has been one of the most popular beauty trends for years, but also one that is a bit more exciting than, for example, that popular lip plumper. It was a treatment that you could only have done by a dermatologist at first, but now you can also do it at home.

Why you should really try dermaplaning

The benefits of dermaplaning are not to be underestimated. First of all, it provides a skin that is so smooth that you can feel and see the difference immediately. By scraping away all the dead skin cells, your skin looks fresher and more even right away.
What is also a big plus: your makeup looks better than ever. Foundation, concealer, and powder blend perfectly with your skin and stay in place all day without shifting or clumping. This is because the superficial layer of fine hairs – often one of the culprits behind a streaky makeup result – has completely disappeared. And believe me: it really is. Another nice benefit is that your skincare products are absorbed better. Think of your favorite serum or moisturizing cream: without that barrier of dead skin cells, the active ingredients can penetrate much deeper, allowing your skin to really get more out of all those wonderful ingredients in your skincare product.

And finally, a reassurance: the persistent rumor that your facial hair comes back darker or thicker after dermaplaning is really a myth. Your hairs grow back as they always have. So no panic—I’ve been using it for a while now and I’m living proof.

But are there also disadvantages?

Yes, definitely. Dermaplaning is and remains a form of exfoliation with a razor-sharp blade. And if you do it wrong (or too often), your skin can become irritated, turn red, or even get small cuts. Do you have sensitive skin or suffer from acne? Then it’s wise to be extra careful or leave the blade alone. Over-exfoliating is really a thing—and believe me: no one is happy about that.

Do you still want to try it, but are you unsure if it’s suitable for your skin? Then be sure to consult a dermatologist or book a professional treatment to immediately get all the tips and tricks from an expert. So ask anything you want to know when you’re there.

How to do dermaplaning safely (and well)

1. Use a good blade. For example, from CouCou, or another high-quality dermaplaning tool. No random AliExpress purchase, please.
2. Start with a clean skin. No creams, oils, or makeup: just freshly cleansed & dry.
3. Work slowly and carefully. Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and use short, gentle movements. Start with your cheeks and jaw—that’s the largest area and perfect to practice on.
4. Take good care afterwards. Apply a soothing serum or cream and of course SPF. Your skin is more sensitive after dermaplaning, so protect it.

Extra tips for a smooth dermaplaning routine

1. Don’t do it too often (really not).
No matter how nice the result is, dermaplaning is a form of exfoliation, and your skin needs time to recover. Once or twice a month is really more than enough. Doing ‘dermaplaning’ too often can damage your skin barrier, making your skin dull, tight, or sensitive. Not the intention. Think of the blade as a luxury spa moment for your skin, not a daily routine.

2. Skip it with active acne or wounds.
If you have pimples, inflammation, or small wounds, then leave the blade in the cabinet for a while. Dermaplaning can spread bacteria and only irritate the skin more. You want to calm it down, not worsen it. Do you only have a few spots? Then you can always work around them (with a lot of care), but when in doubt: skip it.

3. Ensure good lighting.
Sounds logical, but still: always try to do it in good daylight or with bright mirror lighting. The blade needs to do its job and you need to see where you’ve been. In a dim bathroom, you’d better do a face mask, not precision work with a razor-sharp blade, because yes: the blade should really be sharp. As soon as it feels a bit dull, throw it away and use a new one.

4. Clean and disinfect your tool.
After use: rinsing is not enough. Clean your dermaplaning tool with alcohol or an antibacterial cleaner and store it hygienically. Dirty tools cause bacteria and therefore skin problems. You get it. And really replace the blade on time, especially if you feel it getting dull or sliding less well.

5. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.
After dermaplaning, your skin is extra sensitive to damage from the outside (sunlight, for example). So start applying a nourishing serum and a rich cream immediately. Avoid products with alcohol, retinol, or other strong acids right after—your skin is a bit more vulnerable. And yes: a good SPF is the most important step. Always, 365 days a year.

6. Start on a quiet day.
Don’t plan your first time on the morning of a wedding or before a big event. Do it on an evening when you don’t have to go anywhere, so your skin can relax. You never know exactly how your skin will react the first time.