Retinol vs. Retinoid: what is the real difference? (and which one is right for you?)
Okay, let's be honest: there are so many (new) ingredients and combinations in the skincare world that sometimes you just have no idea what to use. Vitamin C or hyaluronic acid sounds familiar, but suddenly you see retinol and retinoids everywhere. Sounds very fancy, but what exactly is the difference? Is it just another name? Or is one stronger than the other? And what should you choose: a serum or a cream?
I've looked it all up for you. Because believe me: if you know the difference, you'll make smarter choices for your skin and avoid those “oh-no-what-have-I-done” moments (read: redness, flakiness, or a stinging skin).
Retinoid: the powerhouse
Fortunately, it's easier than you think, because retinoids are a collective term for all types of vitamin A. There are actually quite a few types of vitamin A: tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene... to make it nice and complicated. They all work towards the same goal: stimulating cell renewal, reducing fine lines and acne, tackling pigmentation spots.
The big difference? The strength. One works faster than the other. But: something that works faster doesn't automatically mean it's better or better suited for your skin. Do you have sensitive skin? Then you often benefit more from a slow build-up. It feels nicer and is ultimately really better for your skin.
Retinol: the mildest of the bunch
And here it is: retinol. Also a retinoid (yes, also a vitamin A), but the softest and mildest version. You can just shop this at the drugstore, perfumery, or of course online. Your skin does need to get used to retinol, so start with a mild variant. Check the percentage of retinol in a product: the lower, the milder. Apply a thin layer every other day and gradually build it up until you notice your skin has gotten used to it.
I always use retinol in the evening, but it could also work in the morning. Just be careful: apply a good layer of high SPF to protect your skin (actually always, but now really). A small sidenote, but very important: you cannot use this product if you are pregnant. No vitamin A, no matter how mild.
With retinol, it does take a bit longer before you see results. And I'm not talking about a few days – this takes weeks, sometimes even months. But your skin will become glowy and happy, so patience is rewarded.
The difference between a serum and a cream
And then that eternal question: should you use a serum or a cream? There is also a difference here.
A serum (or booster)
A serum is lighter, absorbs faster, and often contains a higher concentration of the active ingredient. Perfect if you want a bit more power or if your skin isn't super sensitive. But the same applies here: build it up, otherwise your skin can quickly become red and irritated.
A serum works for all skin types, but for people with oily skin, serums are especially nice – they don't leave a greasy layer behind.
A cream
A cream is often a bit fuller and more nourishing, due to the mix of different ingredients. It spreads softer and gives your skin immediate comfort. A cream is therefore perfect if your skin feels dry or tight quickly, or if your skin reacts quickly to active substances from serums.
I personally grab a serum when I really want to target something (hello pigmentation spots). But because I have dry skin, a cream is handy as the last step in my routine. (And yes: SPF is always the very last step)
Which skin type chooses what?
- Do you have sensitive or dry skin? Start with a retinol cream: mild and nourishing at the same time.
- Or a normal or oily skin? Go for a retinol serum or a light (gel) cream.
- If you suffer from acne or pigmentation issues? Consider (in consultation with your doctor) a prescription retinoid or a serum with a higher retinol concentration.
For all skin types: build up slowly. Start with 1-2 times a week and see how your skin reacts. Because believe me: you don't want a red, irritated, and flaky (yes, really) face.
How to use retinol or retinoid
- I always apply it in the evening, on clean, dry skin.
- Start slowly: 1-2 times a week, and build up gradually.
- Combine with hydration: think of a serum or cream with hyaluronic acid or ceramides.
- Use SPF during the day (always, but now really): retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Last but not least: do not combine a retinoid with salicylic acid or vitamin C (on the same evening), and therefore do not use if you are pregnant.
Shop a retinol here
