Beauty

What do those +++ on sunscreen mean? You really want to know this

By
lotte van scherpenzeel smiling with SPF k-beauty in her hands

If you've ever tried a sunscreen from Korea or Japan (highly recommended, by the way, they're as light as a feather), then you've probably come across them: PA+++ or even PA++++ on the packaging. And then you think: okay, I know SPF. But this? Is it a rating system? Are more pluses better? And why don't you see this on the sunscreen from the drugstore around the corner? I've looked into it for you, tested it, zoomed in like a true cosmetics nerd and yes: you want to know this to protect yourself even better.

Sunscreen with +++: what does it really mean?

PA stands for PProtection Grade of UVA. And UVA is the sunray that does NOT cause burning, but does affect your pigmentation spots, fine lines, and tired-looking skin. That's right, aging. The PA rating comes from Japan (K-beauty is ahead again) and is meant to clearly indicate how much UVA protection a product offers. And they express that in pluses:

PA+ = okay
PA++ = good
PA+++ = very good
PA++++ = top class

SPF, UVA, PA – what is the difference?

We all know SPF. It protects you against UVB-rays—the B stands for Burning, so it’s about burning, redness, but also: skin cancer, one of the biggest types of cancer in the Netherlands, unfortunately. But then there's UVA. It literally hangs in the air every day, even when it's cloudy or raining. And it goes through everything: windows at home or in the office, the glass of your car, even thin clothing. And let UVA be exactly the culprit that causes wrinkles, fine lines, and pigmentation spots.

And this is where PA comes into play.
The term comes from Japan and is sacred in the K-beauty world. Because in Korea, sunscreen is not an extra during sunny days as it often still is here. There, it is a fixed step in the daily routine. You wear it (as it should be) every day, regardless of the weather. And it must meet all the requirements: lightweight, no white cast, no stickiness AND: maximum UVA protection. PA+++ or PA++++ is therefore standard there.

Why don't you see it on all sunscreen products?

In Europe, we use a different system: the UVA logo in a circle. That means the product offers at least 1/3 of the SPF value in UVA protection. But honestly? That says very little about how high that protection actually is. PA scores are not standard here, unless a brand consciously chooses that (as many K-beauty brands do). Those pluses require extra testing procedures during the production of such a sunscreen. It’s not more complicated to make, but as a brand, you do need to conduct a Persistent Pigment Darkening test to get such a PA+++ claim and thus be allowed to place it on their packaging. And many Western brands simply do not take that extra step, especially if they already score well on SPF. It's actually quite a shame because the pluses are just very clear and such a circle is still quite vague. In Asia, they have just tackled that smartly: more pluses means more protection. It can be that simple.

Just to summarize
SPF = protects against UVB (Burning) → burning, redness, skin cancer
PA+++ = protects against UVA (Aging) → wrinkles, pigmentation, loss of elasticity in the skin and collagen

Is sunscreen with PA+++ actually always better?

For UVA protection: yes, absolutely. Especially if you spend a lot of time outdoors, are looking for the best anti-aging cream, or are pigmentation sensitive. Think of melasma, dark spots, or a pregnancy mask that is hard to get rid of. Then those pluses are anything but unnecessary luxury.

The finest sunscreen with PA+++

My K-beauty favorites:
Beauty of Joseon – Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics (PA++++)
Light, fresh, blends like a serum so soft. It's trending big on TikTok for a reason and my boyfriend is also very happy with it (suitable for men too). Tube number three is ordered, so it definitely belongs in the favorites list. SPF50+ AND PA++++.

Isntree – Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel (PA++++)
Perfect for dry skin, melts effortlessly in. Hydration + protection.

Thank You Farmer – Sun Project Light Sun Essence (PA+++) 
It sounds like a farm, but feels like luxury skincare with glow. The stick is also really great from the brand AND you can apply it over your makeup without it smudging.

And new in the lineup: Hyeja – Vegan Bamboo Barrier Peptides Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++
So soft, so soothing, my skin is very happy with this. It's rich in antioxidants, completely vegan, and smells like a Japanese spa in spring. Great for sensitive or stressed skin, without that sticky layer. Skincare and protection in one.

Suntique – I’m Pure Perfect CICA SPF50+ PA++++
The favorite for red, reactive skin. Calms with centella (CICA), doesn't make you shine, and feels mega soothing. Minimalistic chic AND perfect under makeup. Actually, the entire line from Suntique is a recommendation.

Beigic – Revitalizing Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++
Clean beauty with a capital C. Beigic stands for luxury and simplicity in one. This sunscreen nourishes, protects, and makes your skin look like you've slept for eight hours and had a facial. Lightly glowing, wonderfully scentless, and packed with nourishing ingredients. Also check out the Lucent face oil, very nice.

Just a little practical: how do you really protect your skin well?

  • Use a full teaspoon for face & neck
  • Reapply every 2 hours when you're outside
  • Even on cloudy days: UVA penetrates through clouds
  • Sunscreen in your makeup? Great, but an extra layer of protection in your skincare can't hurt.