Why you can easily skip Miami
Miami, I went there a lot, often and gladly. Years later I was back for a moment and it was quite a disappointment.
It was the 80s and 90s of the last century. I worked as a freelance stylist and later as a fashion editor, among others for ELLE. Fashion productions that were published in the summer had to be produced months in advance, because – as is known – such a process from production to print takes several weeks or months before a magazine hits the shelves.
With a crew of photographer, stylist, models, make-up artist, and suitcases full of clothing and accessories, we had to travel to tropical locations that served as settings to credibly showcase the new summer fashion. Miami was an attractive option at that time: almost all year round a clear blue sky and a pleasant temperature. In particular, the Art Deco District, where the softly colored facades of the buildings, the adjacent wide beaches, and the sea created a perfect picture.
The neighborhood was on the rise. Initially, this part of Miami was a beloved place for the elderly to winter, later it was developers who saw potential for a younger target audience. Trendy hotels developed in this neighborhood (Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue, Washington Avenue) that, with then-leading architects such as Philippe Starck, contributed to a vibe where the Young & Beautiful could have fun. The elderly had to make way for a hip crowd that gathered at the now-iconic News Café. Here, Gianni Versace – who was murdered in 1997 and lived in a striking palazzo – bought his newspaper in the morning and drank his cup of coffee.
For those who follow my Instagram (@peggyweijergang), you may have seen that I spent a few days there, a few decades later, during a stopover on my way to Jamaica. Unfortunately, this trip down memory lane turned out to be quite a letdown. Apart from the original architecture, I found little or nothing of what I remembered. Of course, the buildings are still photogenic and colorful, but they are now overwhelmed by noisy mass tourism. For restaurants with mainly unappetizing bites, girls in too revealing outfits are doing their best to lure guests, and on and along the beach, you mainly see huge clothing racks that are busy swelling their muscles a bit more on specially installed fitness equipment.
Fashion productions are now being photographed all over the world, the Art Deco buildings mainly serve as a backdrop for Instagrammers, and I went in search of another Miami.
Where to go in Miami
Fortunately, there are plenty of alternatives and a visit to Miami is still worth it.
For followers of fashion
Absolutely one of the finest shopping paradises I know, with all – especially European – leading top designers in the field of fashion and interior, is the Design District. Each building is uniquely and modernly designed, adorned with art objects and inspiring interiors, covering an area bounded between North 36th Street to the south and North 43rd Street to the north, and West First Avenue to the west and Biscayne Boulevard to the east.
Lunch at Contessa. Top Italian and moreover the place to endlessly do some people-watching.
For art lovers
Not far from the Design District lies the Wynwood neighborhood. Until recently, a forgotten, neglected area with old warehouses and a residential area for workers and immigrants. Now it has transformed into a vibrant artists' neighborhood known for its colorful street art and cultural activities. In this open-air museum, between North 36th Street and North 20th Street, you will find street art from more than 90 artists from over 20 different countries. Don't forget to zigzag a bit, because in small back streets you will find the most surprising gems and cozy coffee shops.
For architecture lovers
The Art Deco District is still a special and protected historic area. So if you don't mind noisy types and mediocre restaurants too much, plan a few hours and preferably view the buildings from a distance, from the boulevard that borders the coast. The most interesting part lies between 5th Street and 23rd Street along Collins Avenue and Washington Avenue. Especially along Ocean Drive stand the most striking pastel-colored Art Deco buildings, which pay tribute to the bygone glamour of the 1920s and 1930s.
For lovers of beautiful hotels
On the rooftop terrace of one of the nicest hotels in this area, 1 Hotel at 2341 Collins Avenue, I had delicious sushi.
Hotel Faena on Collins Avenue 3201, named one of the favorites by Condé Nast Traveller, is top but quite pricey. I advise you, if you want to visit, to just walk in and let the interior – a mix of luxury and creativity with a lot of art – wash over you while enjoying a cocktail.
For lovers of modern architecture
They are well catered for in Downtown Miami, where the design The Scorpion Tower by the renowned Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid at 1000 Biscayne Boulevard is one of the most striking designs. Her buildings are characterized by flowing, rounded shapes, which is why she was also called The Queen of Curve.
For history lovers
In the Vizcaya Museum, a beautiful representation of a 16th-century North Italian villa, there are a number of special things to see. The fairytale, Venetian-inspired house with over 30 richly decorated rooms, the enormous gardens with stunning landscape architecture full of classical statues, and an art collection with works from the Renaissance and Baroque. The museum is located in the northern Coconut Grove neighborhood of Miami, at 3251 South Miami Avenue.
For lovers of boating
Water plays a major role in Miami. It is an important part of recreation, and many luxury homes and high-rise apartment buildings are located by the water. To get a good impression, I booked a boat tour that takes you past the mega-mansions of the rich & famous (Millionaire’s Row), the skyline of Downtown Miami, the harbor, and the skyscrapers of the financial district Brickell.
Enjoy!
Peggy
@peggyweijergang
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