Collagen powder: panacea or marketing hype?

You can't ignore it anymore: collagen. It's in your cappuccino, in colorful gummies, and in serums that promise to lift your skin as if you've just had the finest facial treatment. But does it really work, or is collagen just another beauty hype?

What is collagen actually?

Collagen is actually a very common protein, but it is the most abundant in your body. It forms the basis of your skin, but also of your hair, nails, bones, and joints. Unfortunately, your body starts to produce less collagen from the age of 25, and you notice that. Fine lines creep in, your skin feels a bit less firm, and even your nails can become more brittle. No drama of course, let's be happy that we get to grow older, but it does explain why we are all looking for ways to replenish that supply.

Apply, eat, drink, or swallow?

The big question is: how do you do that? Do you apply it to your skin or throw it in your smoothie? And does it really work? You see more and more skincare products with collagen on the label. Sounds logical: if you're missing something, you apply it, right? Only the collagen molecules in creams are often too large to really penetrate your skin layers. They therefore remain on the surface, where they can hydrate your skin well and make it feel smooth – which is certainly not a bad thing – but they do not provide deep repair or new collagen production, which is what we want. If you really want an effect, you should not look at products with collagen in them, but at ingredients that stimulate your skin to produce collagen itself. Think of retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide or peptides; those are the key ingredients in your skincare for smoother skin.

Collagen to drink

Then there is of course collagen that we swallow or drink. Think of powders, capsules, or drinks that you take daily or can order as an extra shot with your matcha. These forms usually contain hydrolyzed collagen (sounds complicated), also known as collagen peptides. These smaller particles are better absorbed by your body. And yes, there has been good research done on this. Various studies show that if you take the right collagen supplements every day in a row, it really leads to better skin elasticity, hydration, and fewer fine lines.

Not a miracle cure

But to be honest: it's not that if you take a scoop of collagen powder, it flies straight to your crow's feet. Your body breaks down the collagen into amino acids, which then end up where they are needed at that moment, and that can also be somewhere other than your face. Therefore, it is important not to see collagen as a miracle cure, but as part of your whole body. You get the most effect from collagen when you combine it with other ingredients like vitamin C. And perhaps even more importantly: you really have to use it every day, preferably for a longer period. Mixing it vigorously for one week will not make a difference, unfortunately. So that extra shot in your coffee for a few euros has little effect.

The downside of collagen

Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages. Not every collagen product is equally effective. Some are insufficiently concentrated or do not contain the ‘hydrolyzed’ forms you need, causing your body to barely retain it, but rather flush it out. Additionally, collagen supplements are almost always animal-based – usually made from beef, fish, or chicken. This is not ideal for vegetarians and vegans. Fortunately, there are plant-based collagen boosters, but they do not contain real collagen. These do help your body produce it by using other ingredients like vitamin C, zinc, or silicon. So you're not taking it for nothing.

Collagen only works with a healthy lifestyle

Another important point we must not forget is that collagen is not a substitute for a healthy lifestyle. Too much sun, smoking, alcohol, stress, and too little sleep break down your collagen supply just as hard as you try to build it up with supplements. Yes, really. So don't think that you can repair everything with a powder. See it more as a supplement, just like you don't live on serum alone, but also protect your skin with SPF.

About those pink collagen bags

We were just talking in the editorial office about how we've all stood with one of those collagen powder bags in our hands. You know, those bags with ‘beauty glow’ or ‘skin boost’ in fancy letters, often promoted by influencers. They make your countertop look even prettier, but do these really work? Sometimes, but certainly not always. Because many of these (quite commercial) products do contain collagen, of course, but often combined with other ingredients like hyaluronic acid, biotin, zinc, or vitamin C. And that's not a bad combo, but the amount of collagen alongside everything else is often not high. So definitely check the fine print on the back before you shop for such a fashionable bag. If it contains a high dose of ‘hydrolyzed collagen peptides’, then you're good. But also look at additives like sugar, flavorings, and fillers. Not necessarily harmful, but they do very little for your skin.

Also pay attention to the portions you use. Often it is suggested that you take about 2 to 3 grams, but research shows that you need at least 5 to 10 grams per day to see results. And if your powder tastes more like a milkshake than neutral collagen, then you know you're not really on the right track.

So, does collagen really work? Yes, collagen can certainly help for better hydrated, more elastic skin and stronger nails, especially if you choose the right form and combine it with a healthy routine, of course. But it is not a magical shortcut and certainly not a substitute for good skincare, sun protection, or a healthy lifestyle with enough sleep. Applying collagen mainly has a superficial effect, while swallowing or drinking it with prolonged use can provide subtle(!) improvements.

Image: Instagram | oliviatps