Q&A Mode photographer
MILES ALDRIDGE
Last Saturday, the entire art and fashion-loving Netherlands gathered at Weteringschans in gallery Alex Daniels’ Reflex Amsterdam for the new exhibition Vanitas, by British fashion photographer Miles Aldridge (W, Vogue, Numéro).
HOW DID YOUR CAREER AS A FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER START?
‘’It was actually the only work available. And I started in the 90s, when there was a lot of competition. It was an exciting time for fashion, everything seemed to be changing. I really wanted to be in the middle of all that excitement.’’
SO YOU WERE MAINLY INTRIGUED BY THE INDUSTRY, LESS BY THE CLOTHING?
‘’The clothing was exciting too. Versace was a huge success: decadent, incredibly expensive, and almost vulgar. On the other hand, you had Helmut Lang or Jil Sander with refined, European, almost intellectual fashion. I thought it was amazing that those things could coexist so well.’’
DID THIS CONTRAST ALSO COME FORWARD IN PHOTOGRAPHY?
‘’Absolutely. A lot was still being invested in magazines at that time. It had to be more interesting and unusual than what had been seen until then. That’s amazing to experience as a photographer. I wanted to create something beautiful, but also something that was somewhat problematic. That’s how you can best describe my style: beautiful, but problematic.’’
DO YOU GET A LOT OF ARTISTIC FREEDOM WITH LARGE MAGAZINES?
‘’Yes, magazines book you because they like your style. I have worked for Italian Vogue and often collaborate with big photographers like Meisel, Peter Lindbergh, Demarchelier. These photographers all have a strong opinion that is respected.’’
YOU WORK A LOT WITH HIGH-END DESIGNER LABELS. COULD YOU ALSO WORK WITH CHEAPER MASS ITEMS?
‘’Whether you work with more exclusive brands or mass brands, it actually contributes little to the success of the photo. The difference between high brow and low brow has also become much smaller in recent years, it’s fading. An example: Karl Lagerfeld who also designs for H&M. Especially the internet seems to have bridged that gap. That was different at the beginning of my career, but I don’t mind at all.’’
WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL FAVORITE PHOTO FROM THIS EXHIBITION?
‘’That’s the photo of the girl with the hairdryer. I don’t know what it is, but that photo really touches me.’’
