A few kilos lighter through good make-up

Shape & highlight

The days of sitting around tables and eating for hours are coming soon. All great of course, but we still want to fit into our dresses without puffy faces. For tips on fitting into the dress, read here, for the puffy face bit, keep reading.

Katerina Brans is a make-up artist and ‘does’ fashion shows in New York, Milan and Paris under the lead of Pat McGrath. She also does editorial work and her latest ‘baby’ is the cover of Harper’s Bazaar. She’s a magician with a make-up brush and can also tell you how to look five kilos lighter by shaping & highlighting correctly.

Katerina: “If you take a good look at the face, you’ll see that some parts are highlighted and some are shadowed. Logical. You can create far more dimension in the face with highlighting and shaping. You can play with this and hide puffy eyes, powder yourself a thinner nose and make your under-chin look thinner.” A kind of facelift without cutting.

“Before you begin with make-up, it is extremely important that you have cared for your skin and hydrated it well. Work with great brushes, because that is half the work. I apply foundations with my fingers, powdery products with brushers. Thin layers are a must, good to build it up and then fade in. Only then can you achieve the best effect.”

1. Shaping with foundation

“You can create a lovely deep effect with foundation. It’s best to work with two shades. One that is two shades lighter than your skin tone and one that is two shades darker. I like working with RMK Cream Foundation. It’s lovely and creamy, covers well and blends easily. The Touche Éclat from YSL works well for under the eyes or if you need more coverage, go for the Radiant Creamy Concealer from Nars.

2. Matte Sculpting and Highlighting

“To create extra depth in your face, work with matte, darker products without any glitter particles. Apply along the hairline, in a triangular shape (from your mouth corners to the highest and lowest point of your ears) and under your chin. If it makes it easier, make a duck-face, it helps. Then apply along the temples, in the brow arch and very subtly along the sides of your nose. Great products for all of these techniques are the Multiple crème sticks from NARS. They work well on a dry skin. If you have a normal to oily skin you should use a powdery texture, for example the Sculpting powders by MAC or Kevyn Aucoin via Net-a-Porter.”

3. Highlights

“Using a product with reflective particles makes it possible to create multiple dimensions. Go for a liquid shimmer or cream highlighter. Take note of the colour, so you can create the prettiest effect. If you have a light skin, use a product with a rosy glow, if you have a darker skin then use warm colours like gold and orange. I apply the shimmer with my fingers along the jawline and nose bridge. I like using the Fluid Sheer from Giorgio Armani. NARS also has a shimmery cream highlighter in a stick form.”

4. Back to summer

“Do you want that summer glow back? You can achieve it easily with a bronzer, the big benefit being that it also has a slimming effect. The colour is very important. Not too orange, not too pink. Apply on the apples of your cheeks and all places where the sun would hit your face. So the nose and chin. CK has a lovely and handy Cream and Powder Bronzer Duo and Terracotta Bronzer no. 3 from Guerlain has been in my case for years.”

Image photos: Branislav Simoncik, Make-up: Katerina Brans