6 THINGS YOU CAN LEARN

BY MART FISHER

Between the spring/summer collections in New York and London, it was time for a shot of metropolitan couture on Saturday. Mart Visser showed there his couture collection fall/winter (couture always shows at the moment itself and not six months in advance) in The Amsterdam Conservatorium Hotel where just Justin Bieber caused a stir for two days. Mart has been at the helm for so long, time for a recap of the six words of wisdom.

Strong and sexy remains a fine combination

It was Yves Saint Laurent who gave us women shoulders. Well, we already had the shoulders, but Yves emphasised them in his jackets and dinner jackets, literally hoisting us into a power suit. Christian Dior celebrated the woman, the waist, the hip and captured that in flared skirts and blouses with flared sleeves.

If Dior and Saint Laurent were to marry, they would probably have had a child which bore the name Mart Visser.

Women can be women

No way Mart sends his models away if they are over 28 and their hips measure 91 centimetres. Mart celebrates women. Even if they are ‘the perfect size 40’ or have a wrinkle around the eye. “Child, I only sell better if a model is slightly bigger. If a model is too skinny, I sometimes use padding pants. Instead of taking the clothes off for the customer, I just pad the model's clothes.”

Front row likes Mart

From Igone de Jongh (first soloist of the Dutch National Ballet and jury member of Dance, Dance, Dance) and Hans van Maanen via Leco and Fred along Daphne Deckers to Leontine Borsato. And Anouk Smulders opening the show. Then you have a star-studded party, mind you.

Champagne and bitterballs are a fine marriage

No complicated left-field organic appetisers. Just a hearty bitterball, old-fashioned Zaanse mustard and a glass of champagne in your hand.

Waist front, cape back is a very good idea

The first coat that I really felt a great and compelling love for was one by Mac & Maggie (yes sorry, that was then) with a belt at the front that ‘went in’ at the side of the coat making the coat bell at the back. Mart has incorporated that theme into many items and I would like them all. Although, of course, I'm not supposed to say that at all.

Claire Underwood is the perfect role model

Because not too young, cast-iron, razor-sharp yet feminine. Mart saw in Anouk Smulders his ideal Claire Underwood and asked her to walk his show. And to open.