MILAN FOR BEGINNERS
In other words: Milan for beginners
The first time I was in Milan, I didn't find it terrible, but I felt like I had signed up for a sport whose rules I didn't know. I didn't speak the language and knew little about the customs. By now, I have taken some extra lessons in the form of living in Rome for half a year, going on vacation very often, and ticking off quite a few fashion weeks and I find it almost nowhere more enjoyable than there.
Tomorrow, Milan virgins Lilian and Kiki are going to the fashion capital, so to help them a bit with the initiation, some Milan rules.
Just take that bus
Milan has three airports, of which you should really ignore Bergamo, Linate is the most accessible, but Malpensa is the airport where the price fighters fly. If you take a taxi, you might as well have bought that comfortable KLM ticket, because you would spend the difference on the taxi ride. At least. And then you wouldn't have to pay extra for your suitcase. Now there is a train from Malpensa to the city, but I find that hassle. Transferring from one terminal to another, then the train and then the metro. My spoiled inner self is already done with that. But the Malpensa Express is quite nice. You pay seven euros, throw your suitcase in the hold, and are dropped off at the beautiful Central Station.
The culinary rules
Coffee, called caffè espresso, is the way coffee is prepared in Italy, so if you say that, they look at you as if you are pazza (= crazy). You drink coffee standing ‘al banco’ at the bar, and after twelve, a cappuccino is out of the question. Of course, you can have all sorts of opinions about it, that's fine too. But if you want to be taken a bit seriously by the Italians, then you don't do it.
Pasta is a second course in Italy. You have an antipasto, then a primo, and then a secundo (meat or fish). You won't be court-martialed if you order two appetizers, but they will find it strange.
Go to these little restaurants in the center and you will feel like you're in heaven
My Milan favorites
Milan is a bit like Rotterdam. Part of it was bombed during World War II, which means beautiful, old parts are interspersed with some rougher new buildings. My favorite store and hotel Corso Como 10 (of the sister of the recently deceased editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia) and Hotel Moschino are located in a less photogenic neighborhood. But go to these little restaurants in the center and you will feel like you're in heaven.
Above a shop Dondup. Hip with a similar kitchen.
The absolute favorite spot on Via Montenapoleone. Very Jettie and Simone proof. Think homemade, rural, and intensely cozy with a beautiful inner garden. Do make a reservation, as it is popular and the tables are limited.
A classic. Far from hip and, in my opinion, a bit too frequented by tourists, but you really should have been there.
For the perfect yet simple pizza. Also a favorite of many fashion people. The last time I was there, Janet Jackson was there too.
In the middle of the city behind Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi is Il Salumaio; a chic place with a lovely terrace where many Italian ladies come with their granddaughters to admire the freshly bought goods (Chanel, Prada, Dolce) during lunch with a glass.
By the way, Milan is forever etched in my heart because this.
