8x why you want to go to Portofino
Oops, actually 9
A few times a year, my love and I book a trip. To sleep and shop. Yes, and to have a little romance. No one has ever gotten worse from that. At least, if it concerns two adult people who both agree. Anyway. In our minds, we had already traveled the whole world. Was it going to be Miami? Or Rio? Maybe Bangkok? Or what about San Francisco and then driving on to Carmel? Or should we follow Maxima's roots and head to Buenos Aires?
One destination was too far, another too cold, another too expensive, too ambitious. When I looked at my watch to see how long we had been thinking, we knew it. Portofino. Just like my IWC watch. We made a pilgrimage out of it and besides, everyone starts a hymn when you mention the P-word. Off we went and boy, I am in love.
1. XS Saint Tropez
If you were already crazy about Saint Tropez, then you are definitely wild about Portofino. It's Saint Tropez in petite. The French seaside resort has 6000 residents, Portofino officially has 500 inhabitants but in reality, there are at most 200. The other 300 residents are actually wealthy Milanese who have a second home here and are only present on weekends and holidays.
2. Ultra chic
When I was there, many shops were still closed (which was probably for the best) but name a brand and it's there. Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balenciaga, Loro Piana, Hermès, and my favorite (the only one that was open) l’Ancora. They sell BAZAR deluxe but also the lesser-known and oh so fun Brigitte Bardot (great dresses for the beach) and the cutest loafers and moccasins that they make themselves in Italy. Oh, and hats. Hats!
3. The twins
This was the only restaurant that was open when we were there, but what a restaurant it was. Da i gemelli, or the twins, and I can tell you that twin is handsome. And I had a sauce with my langoustines so delicious that I would want to work as a stowaway in the kitchen to find out the recipe. But of course, I can just go eat there again.
4. The water
It is azure blue. And when you lie in your hotel room (or in my case in an apartment), you can hear the sea rustling and the water lapping. So soothing.
5. The VIPs
Portofino acts like a polished magnet for very important persons. Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Ava Gardner, Vittorio Gassman, Marcello Mastroianni, Robert De Niro, Liza Minnelli, Alain Delon, George Clooney, Madonna, Peter Gabriel, Denzel Washington, Ringo Starr, Barbra Streisand, Rod Stewart. They all found it just as enjoyable as I did.
6. The houses
Are all so beautiful and colorful. And the ornaments are painted on them. We briefly discussed whether we found that Disney-like fake or just beautiful. I chose the latter.
7. The rising water
With a bit of bad luck, the water splashes over the sidewalks of Portofino. You might find it annoying, I find it pleasantly earthy and primal. Shoes in your hands and walking through the water with your bare feet.
8. Dolphins
They are indeed there. Portofino comes from Porto del Fino, harbor of the dolphins. Rent a boat and you'll see them around you.
9. When you should go
I would go in the pre or post-season. Because it is busy and expensive. Three nights in Hotel Splendido can easily cost you 9000 euros. And if the menu describes dishes in Russian alongside Italian, you know what time it is. But go early in the season and keep an eye on your wallet and it will be fine. Maybe I'll see you because I have definitely ordered a ten-ride card.



