The Paris of Mara Grimm

Mara Grimm is envied for multiple reasons. For her collection of vintage Hermès, for example, because she undoubtedly ranks among Sergio Herman's favorites (she writes his books, hence) and because she has a pied-à-terre in Paris. In fact, she just returned. As part of our Paris week, she is the person to whisper some nice Paris inspiration and tips-for-later to you.

I suspect that you were in Paris before you even knew it. You must have been drenched in Parisian taste and style by your mother as a baby. Do you remember your first time?
‘My mother indeed took me to Paris regularly before I could even walk. She showed me classic Paris; we drank coffee at La Palette in the Rue de Seine, shopped at Le Bon Marché, and bought notebooks at Gibert Joseph on the Boulevard Saint-Michel. My first memory is a dinner at Bofinger, for a long time one of the city's brasseries. The enormous platters of fruits de mer, the flambéing of the crêpes Suzette, the dead-serious waiters… I found it pure magic.’

You now have a second home there. When did you think: I'm just going to do it?
‘Four years ago. I had always dreamed of a house in Paris and suddenly feared it would remain an eternal fantasy. I could temporarily rent an apartment in the 9th, just around the corner from Hôtel Amour. After just two days, I knew I never wanted to leave. From that moment on, I visited at least ten real estate agents every day to find a permanent place. It was as hilarious as it was exhausting, but within a year I had my dream home: an attic in Pigalle with a view over the Parisian rooftops.’

Just to make you a bit jealous: how often are you in Paris?
‘Every other week, usually for a week. I have a subscription to the Thalys, which makes traveling back and forth almost as normal as taking the tram. What also helps: I live within walking distance of Gare du Nord, so I sometimes go back and forth in one day.’

And because we can't go there for now but can fly there in our minds, can you take us through an average day of Mara Grimm in Paris? What does that look like?
‘I spend the first hours of the day writing at home; if I don't start right away in the morning, I won't get anything on paper the whole day. I work until lunchtime. I usually have lunch outside, just like almost everyone in Paris. Sometimes in company, but I prefer alone. Notebook with me, a glass of wine, you won't make me happier. After that, I walk through the city, at least a few hours every day, usually on my way to a new patissier or another address I've read about. Around six o'clock, I do my shopping on the Rue des Martyrs or at the market on Place d’Anvers. There are so many beautiful products for sale that it's almost a shame not to cook at home every evening. But yes…’

Most beautiful bridge in Paris:
‘Cliché, but I choose the Pont Alexandre III. Aside from all the grand details, it leads to perhaps the most beautiful building in the city: the Grand Palais. The exhibitions are always fantastically arranged, and in winter you can skate on the largest ice rink in the world there.’

Ever wanted to party with whom in Paris:
‘I would have loved to dine with Christian Dior. Besides being a genius designer, he was also a true gourmand: he was one of the last Parisians to still have a private chef.’

Out of Paris with pitch and feathers:
‘The crises. Paris has had a tough time over the past two years. Before the corona crisis, there was a months-long public transport strike, and before that, there were endless disturbances due to the yellow vests. Additionally, the lockdowns are much stricter than in the Netherlands: at the moment, you can only go outside for an hour a day. The city is suffering greatly from this. The gastronomy too: certainly thirty percent of the restaurants will probably not make it to the end of the year. Paris deserves a carefree year.’

Favorite place for fruits de mer:
‘Clamato in Rue de Charonne. The 11th arrondissement is a great place if you love food. A few tips: Le Servan, Mokoloco, Maison Sota Atsumi, and of course Septime.’

Standard along as a souvenir:
‘Butter! The salted butter from Pascal Beillevaire is my favorite. Also special: the raspberry butter from Bordier – only available in summer.’

Required reading if you are in Paris:
‘Discovering the new Paris. Paris is so much more than Saint-Germain and Le Marais. The best parts are the 10th, 11th, and 19th arrondissements. And the 9th of course, especially Pigalle and Trudaine.’

Fondest memory of Paris:
‘Last summer – the period between the two lockdowns – was magical. Restaurants were allowed to temporarily expand their terraces and turned parking spaces into outdoor restaurants. Everywhere people were eating and drinking. Extra nice: there were no tourists, so you could wander endlessly through empty museums. The Louvre almost entirely to yourself: there is no greater luxury.’

I miss this when I'm not there:
‘The bakery on the corner, the cheese shop further down the street, the neighborhood restaurant where I eat every week, but above all: the endless beauty.’