Why vitamin C should always be the first step in your skincare routine
Your 1-, 2-, 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-, 8-step plan that is now in your bathroom cabinet: how, what and where do you start? Whereas for years we were inspired by the K-beauty routine trend with standard ten steps, these days we are increasingly shifting towards minimalism. Less products, maximum results shall we say.
I like to combine both trends. At quiet moments, I like to take time for a comprehensive routine, and when the clock is ticking in the morning and my boys are running and flying, we take a minimalist approach. It makes me happy, but: in what order do you actually apply your skincare?
So this is surprisingly simple: from thin and liquid to fuller and thicker. So from a watery serum to a richer cream. If you start with a thicker substance, lighter products can't do their job properly and stay on top of your skin. Result: that eternal, greasy layer that really doesn't make me happy.
So, now you know. But if you really want to do it right, there's one ingredient it's always best to start with. Here it comes.
Vitamin C
For years, my skincare routine has started with vitamin C. It actually started quite by accident, because the serum I use is very liquid and thin. But what turns out? Vitamin C not only makes sense as a first step, it's also exactly what you want to start with.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant (in other words, a protector for your skin) and works best when you apply it first on a clean canvas, with no other skincare underneath. It protects your skin from free radicals, think air pollution, UV rays and other daily dirt, and helps fight skin ageing. Think of it as a kind of protective shield and thus the perfect foundation under the rest of your routine.
In addition, vitamin C is known for its ability to give your skin that glow. It helps fade and even out pigment spots (one of the reasons I started using it) and stimulates the production of collagen. Okay, moving forward: collagen is better to eat or drink, but every little bit helps, so we just smear it on too.
Why first?
Because vitamin C is an active ingredient. As soon as you apply a thick cream or oil first, it cannot soak into the skin as well and loses its power and effect on your skin. On clean skin, before other serums and creams, vitamin C can do its job best.
Butrrrr: vitamin C is also one of the most sensitive ingredients in skincare. So store your serum in a dry, dark place and let it come into contact with air as little as possible. And important to know: there are lots of different forms of vitamin C, from powerful variants to milder options. So check which form and strength best suits your skin. A few highlighted below.
Which vitamin C suits your skin?
Normal to strong skin
L-Ascorbic Acid (ascorbic acid)
The purest and most potent form. Works effectively against pigmentation, fine lines and dull skin, but may be too intense for sensitive skin.
Sensitive skin
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
A milder, stable form that moisturises and soothes, with less risk of redness or prickling.
Dry or dehydrated skin
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Gentle but effective, gives glow without leaving skin feeling tight and works well with moisturisers.
Oily or blemished skin
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
Light in texture, helps with impurities and supports sebum balance.
Very sensitive or reactive skin
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
A fat-soluble, extra mild form that works deep into the skin without irritating - ideal when other vitamin Cs are too intense.
Here's how to use vitamin C in your morning routine
- Cleaning
- Vitamin C serum
- Possibly a hydrating serum such as hyaluronic acid
- Day cream
- SPF, really every day. Agreed?
