Mei's Stockholm Dagboek

Stockholm has been on my must-visit list for a long time. I've been to Malmö a few times, as well as to Skåne, the Swedish east coast that is proudly called Tuscany due to its resemblance to the rolling hills of Italy. But I hadn't made it further north yet. So when my Pilates and barre teacher Olga Isabelle asks me if I'm up for a weekend of Pilates in Stockholm, I immediately say ‘yes’.

Sometimes there are plans that float in the air and never take shape, but this one resonates. There is a group chat where a fun woman is added each time. The idea is that everyone books their own flight and hotel, and Olga takes care of a studio, a daily class, and as a Swedish citizen, she ensures the best restaurants.

Suddenly, the moment arrives and I fly to Stockholm on a Thursday afternoon. It's just that I've had a bit of a tumultuous time and feel that I fully deserve it; otherwise, it would definitely have felt like skipping school. The flight takes about two hours as we land at Stockholm airport. Funny: the airport looks much messier than its Danish counterpart in Copenhagen, and the taxis also look a bit shabby. When the driver tries to rip me off for 150 Swedish kronor, refuses to drop me off at the hotel (afraid I'll ask the staff what a regular rate is), and even grabs my forearm when I want to take my suitcase out of the car, it feels more like I'm in a corrupt country than in the well-behaved Sweden.

But at Villa Dagmar, everything is different. Books by Slim Aarons, beautiful scented candles, a bar in a covered courtyard, a fountain with designer bags on the arms of beautiful Swedish women... My room is smaller than expected, but the bed makes everything, and I mean everything, right. That mattress (from Elgens, I checked) and the triple stack of pillows and the soft, white linen beg for an afternoon nap. It's just that the city calls me; otherwise, I would have definitely stretched out for a bit.

What follows are three days filled with workouts, the best omelet ever (with salmon and chives and a spicy sauce), ‘fresh’ women (whom I didn't know very well yet, but who were all nice), flowing conversations, Tikkies in the group chat where no one made a fuss about paying (I've experienced that differently before), a runaway step counter, and an overstretched credit card.

If you also want a weekend in Stockholm, here are my tips.

What you need to know:
- It takes about 40 minutes to drive from the airport to the city. A taxi costs about 700 Swedish kronor, but there is also a train (though that was under construction now). The Swedish crown relates to the euro as follows: for 1 crown, you get 0.85 euro cents.

- Sweden is expensive, and the shops are amazing, so start saving.

- If you don't like fish, you might want to reconsider going. It's all salmon, herring, and other fish everywhere.

- All Swedes speak English, so don't worry if you don't speak the language.

- I was afraid of mosquitoes (because of all the water), but I didn't see a single one. The water bordering Stockholm is salty, so no mosquito magnet like the lakes in the north.

- There is a lot of greenery and nature in the city. Sweden has 10 million inhabitants and is 11 times larger than the Netherlands. So there is a lot of space, and you can definitely feel that.

- Did I already mention that there are many beautiful shops?

- Around Stockholm, there are 24,000 islands. There are special ferries that take you to certain islands where you can walk and eat. Many islands in the archipelago are private. Some people have their own island with their house on it.

My restaurants and shops
1. Hotel Villa Dagmar
It's a ‘boutique hotel’ but quite large. Advantages: right in the good neighborhood, truly where everything happens, a great bar, a delicious breakfast (the best omelet ever), and the most comfortable bed ever. Disadvantage: quite pricey and a fairly small room.

2. Food market next to Villa Dagmar
I've never seen such a beautiful food market. The Amsterdam Hallen could learn a thing or two from this. Plus: all the trendy, attractive, and well-dressed Swedes come here to get their snacks. A nice bonus.

3. NK shopping paradise
Think Bon Marché, but a bit more accessible. You start with Hermès and YSL, but you can easily bump into more affordable brands like Ralph Lauren, Filippa K, Odd Molly, and also fantastic bikinis and swimsuits (okay, those are a bit less affordable) from Zimmermann.

4. Eat and dance at brasserie Astoria, Nybrogatan 15, Stockholm
Really a bit like the 1920s (from the last century, think The Great Gatsby, flapper dresses style, delicious food, and nice service, and when you go to the bathroom, you suddenly find yourself dancing to ABBA in a steamy bar.

5. Soho House, Majorsgatan 7, Stockholm
Very cleverly located in an old church (so no taxes need to be paid). The café and Soho House part is very impressive in the church; you can have drinks around the organ, but that makes it not super cozy. We ate at the bar at Cecconi's: really delicious Italian (with a Swedish twist because of the best crackers ever) and it was cozy and tasty.

6. Restaurant Rökeriet
Take a boat to Fjäderholmarna and then walk to Rökeriet. It's Sweden as you imagine it, with slender, tall trees, red wooden houses, and a view of the water. At Rökeriet, you eat traditionally: a lot of fish, crackers, and the Swedes love cocktails.

7. Nathalie Schuterman
Unfortunately, it was closed when I stood drooling at the door, but this is the most beautiful clothing store ever. Go there quickly!