This is the tastiest chips in the world

I'm not usually very jealous, but Mara Grimm has a high jealousy-inducing factor. She lives half in Paris, has a wardrobe that makes me need a heart monitor for her work, she is a culinary journalist, dining in the best restaurants. This week she tested 60 types of chips for her newsletter. I mean: jealous.

Dear Mara, your book Bon Appétit Paris is amazing, just like your newsletter (you are the only one besides Alison Roman for whom I pay for the newsletter) and I always go first to your review in Het Parool. If you had to give your life a score today, what would it be and why?
A 9.5. I've wanted exactly four things my whole life: to write, to make books, to become a mother, and to live in Paris. So I am indeed living my own dream. That half point deduction is because my work never stops. Recently I was in Rome to relax for a few days, but I discovered some restaurants that were so good that I wanted to write about them. That's how it always goes: no vacation is safe, especially since I share my favorite addresses in my newsletter De Tafel van Grimm.

This week you worked your way through 60 bags of chips because you thought, I agree by the way, that chips deserve a more positive spotlight. How did you even come across 60 types of chips?
Yes, that chip test escalated quite a bit. I wanted to tackle the slouched-on-the-couch image that chips have in the Netherlands, because in Spain they are just on the table during aperitifs. That's why I wanted to send my newsletter readers a list of a few really good types. But when I tasted my old favorites side by side, I discovered such big differences that I became curious about more. Before I knew it, I was sampling everywhere. From Appie to Lidl and from delicatessen to webshop. My kitchen was filled with days of half-empty bags of chips. There was no end to it, but I did find them: the absolute best chips. Number 1 (the chips from the Spanish brand Sarriegui) are unfortunately only available at a handful of delicatessens, but if it were up to me, that would change quickly. I personally never want to eat anything else.

HEMA scored surprisingly high, so I'm going to buy that right away because of you. That's what I like about you: you're chic but not too good for anything. What makes HEMA chips so good in their category?

A small note: it was only about the natural chips from HEMA, not the rest. I missed the potato flavor that you have with the real top ones, but the price-quality ratio is very good. The texture is important: those natural chips from HEMA are nice and thin, crispy, and airy-crunchy, very elegant actually. I found that lacking in many other private labels: most chips are cut so thick that they are rock hard.

How do you keep your body somewhat in check with all that eating? Or are those the Parisian walks doing their job?
Fashion is my salvation; I want to be able to Dries Van Noten In Paris, I indeed walk a lot, averaging 15,000 steps a day. And I try to compensate for the endless amount of dinners by eating a lot of vegetables at home.

Okay Mara, back to this column. It's Friday at 5:00 PM. Where are you, what are you doing, is there something in your glass?
Tonight I'm going to eat for Het Parool, so around 5:00 PM I'm still in the middle of preparation. I always read up well and I'm really looking forward to it. It remains a magical moment: stepping into a new restaurant for the first time. Besides, it's mostly hard work, because I'm paying attention to everything, including what happens at the tables next to me.

What does an average Mara weekend look like?
Because I travel a lot and often eat out, I try to plan as little as possible on Saturdays. I prefer to lock myself up with a stack of books, a fire going, and my phone on silent. But not without first doing extensive grocery shopping. I have regular places where I get my supplies: when I'm in Amsterdam, I go to Casa del Gusto in the Kerkstraat, the best Italian delicatessen in the Netherlands where they also have good vegetables, bread, and fantastic pasta. In Paris, I always go to Au Bout du Champ in the Rue des Martyrs: they sell vegetables from farmers near Paris.

Suppose earthly matters like time difference, flight shame, money, and travel time don't exist for a moment. What does your ideal weekend look like then? Starting in Amsterdam and then via Paris to the New York where we once met?
Oh yes, that dinner in New York was so much fun! In Amsterdam, I like to eat at Kaagman & Kortekaas, so I would start there. The next morning I take the train to Paris and have lunch at Le Servan. In the evening, I dine at Maison Sota before we fly to New York. There I want to have cheong fun for breakfast in Chinatown and lunch at the new Foul Witch. They just opened, so I haven't been there yet, but I'm so curious that I almost booked a ticket.

What do you like to read, listen to, and eat on the weekend?
My Saturday obviously starts with Het Parool. Even when I didn't work for the newspaper, opening the PS of the Week was already the starting signal for my weekend. Additionally, there is always a stack of new cookbooks waiting for me on the kitchen table. During the week, I only read everything from my laptop or phone; on the weekend, I dive into print. I love the smell of ink and paper.

Which podcasts are your favorites?
I enjoy listening to The Dave Chang Show by New York chef Dave Chang. Another recommendation: Ruthie’s Table. In it, Ruth Rogers from The River Café in London talks with actors, writers, and artists about food.

Does Sunday have a different atmosphere for you than Saturday?
Sundays have more delay. Especially in Paris, it is wonderfully quiet then, and it feels like you have the city to yourself. Moreover, after a day full of books, I'm recharged and eager to see people: I love long lunches on Sundays, preferably with friends or family.

What’s on your list of restaurants you must and want to go to?
There are so many that I keep lists by country. Currently, I'm focusing on Japan, where I'm going with my son at the end of next week. I'm especially looking forward to Gion Matayoshi in Kyoto.

And then Monday. What time does it start again and what are you going to do?
I prefer to start writing as early as possible. In an ideal world, everyone would leave me alone until 1:00 PM so I can work uninterrupted. After that, I go for lunch; if I'm in Paris or traveling, it's always out, usually to spot new addresses for my books or newsletter.

Do you also want to receive Mara’s newsletter with the best addresses and the latest food trends every two weeks? You can subscribe to De Tafel van Grimm via the link.

Photo credits portraits of Mara: Linda Stulic for Het Parool